Primed.

Moving a long quite nice. I have three of the four coats of Interlux 2000E primer down. According to the instructions, I must put down the 1st. coat of the bottom paint with in 7 and 9 hours after the 4th. coat to get the required bond between them. Not sure how critical this is, but I'm taking no chances. I don't want to be in position to do paint the bottom again because of blistering.

Now it's on with 2 coats of Pettit Hard Racing Copper Bronze paint. Which I hear is an "animal" all of it's own. Report to follow.

Putty up!

I am pretty happy with the fairing and sanding of the bottom. After using the 8" Dewalt sander, I went over the entire bottom with a 16" long flexible longboard with 80 grit paper to get out the low spots. Then on to putty and fill the 1500+ screw holes. I used Famowood # 1 wood filler, as recommended by "the book". Though I think the DAP solvent based wood filler they sell at Home Depot works the same. For what I know, it's probably the same stuff.

For the larger bolt holes, I used Smith's Fill-It, a epoxy based wood filler that will not shrink and dries overnight.

After the wood filler dried overnight, I went over with my 5" orbital sander. Then back out for two coats of Smith's CPES. Now it looks like a spotted trout, as said by someone else.

If the mild weather hold a few more days, I may be able to lay a few coats of the Interlux 2000E primer before winter sets in. It is workable down to 41ºF (5ºC). Painting with the Copper Bronze paint must wait until spring.

Out in fresh air.

The hull is out of the shop for the first time is 2 1/2 years. Initial sanding is to be done on the bottom, and want to do that outside. A lot of dust is generated and want to avoid the cleanup.

Initial sanding with my DeWalt variable speed sander with 8" soft pad. 80 grit paper is used.

Looking pretty good.

I have to reset about 50 screws that are not drilled deep enough, and then fill all the screw holes with Famowood No. 1 wood filler. Final sanding by hand with a long board before sealing with CPES and Interlux 2000E primer.

5200 bottom.

I finally have a 5200 bottom, but not much more boat than that. Finished "gluing" down the bottom planks with 3M5200, and installed the 1550 (or so) screw that the original bottom had.

It is messy work, but will ensure the longevity of the bottom for the next 50+ years, that's the claim anyway. "Time will show.."

It took 30 tubes of 5200 to cover the bottom with a 3/16" V-trowel.

I will let the 5200 cure for a short week, put the wheels on again and take the hull outside for initial sanding. It create a lot of dust, and I rather do that out in the drive way.

Planked out!

After a week of steam bending, sizing, cutting and hand planing I have all the planks for the bottom just right. It came out pretty good. It was somewhat hard to get the a nice even fit over the length of the boat. Was able to keep all seams inside 1/16" (1.5 mm) wide. The gap will be filled with 3M5200 during final assembly. Plank No. 1, 2, 4 and 5 are full length boards, and No. 3 is split 1/2 way.

The center lines for the frames are marked with different colors, from the marks in the keel and chine. Want to distinguish the different frames because of the different screw sizes. Main- and auxiliary frames (black and green) takes a #8 x 1 3/4" screw and the intermittent frames (red) takes a #8 x 1" screw. Also marked the where not to put a screw.

Once the planks have dried for a week or so, it's time to take the planks off again, seal with CPES and permanently install with 3M5200.

Ahh, the smell of wood.

The shop is smelling like freshly cut Philippine Mahogany again. It's been a long four month "sabbatical". I've been rough cutting the bottom planks, and steam bending to take some of the stress out. This will make installing planks without help a little easier.

Note to self: Pre-fit and steam planks before inner layer is installed........

Once they cool overnight, fitting and adjustment is done. Since both the keel and the stem is new, the old garboard planks (closest plank to the keel) are not good enough for for accurate tracing.

Nice fit, after a final adjustment with a block plane.

One pair down, 4 more to go....

Goodies from Al.

The last of the missing hardware is now in house. After hours of scouting eBay and calling used parts dealers, I bitt the bullet and ordered them from California Classic Boat and Al Schinnerer. He has done the research over the last 30 + years so you can be sure you get the correct piece. And they come show ready with new chrome.

The new pieces are ignition (with correct bezel), hatch handles, flagpole with globe light, trim rings for the lift rings, and trim ring for the exhaust at the transom. And new hull number and prop plates.

And then to the steering wheel... The wife had a strange look on her face when I said I needed a $1100 steering wheel.

I've been looking all over for a used 17" 3-spoke wheel. In my research I found out it is the same at used in 1936-37 Plymouth trucks. I called half a dozen antique Mopar parts dealers, without any luck. Found some one on eBay selling NOS wheels, they where "backlite" brown in color and at a $750 "buy it now". Still had to use many hours on getting it painted black, and probably with mixed results. The seller never return my question to confirm the diameter of the center recess either. Several fellow woodies-guys had old ones for sale, most in very bad shape and with a groove or two on the rim (which is said to be incorrect). Also the countless hours I had to spend repairing with epoxy putty and painting, with uncertain results.